Wednesday, 18 March 2009

Kerrera



Many moons ago my wife, then fiance, and I found ourselves on an island. Not washed up there following a shipwreck during a storm on the high seas but intentionally found ourselves there. Well both our intentions but not long after we were on it my wife was soon wanting off, changed days indeed. This was no island paradise under the clear blue sky with lapping crystal waves soothing the course sand beneath the feet but a barren ruddy excuse of a place more like a big mossy rock set among the bleak grey of a Scottish cold windy Autumn. Its name was, and still is, Kerrera situated a little distance off Oban in the North West of Scotland. How we came to be in Oban is another story for another day but suffice it to say we found ourselves stuck there for 4 days and had to make our own entertainment. Such entertainment we were promised was to be found on this isle of Kerrera. We had not expected to be stranded there and as such were not prepared for the ill weather and lack of a escape plan. My wife wrapped up as best as she could while I had no hat, scarf or any relevant clothing. Instead with trainers and a light jacket I shivered away like the stupid accidental tourist I was forced to play.

We'd stood for over an hour by the water waiting for the ferry which turned out to be an aquatic cattle truck completely exposed to the windy and rainy elements of the dark morning. Once plopped on the island we were then left to our own devices. Incidentally to get back there was a public phone we had to use to call the ferry once more. In all we spent two hours walking around the island looking at nothing as that was all there was. Cold and tired the only thing which kept us going was the promise of a castle much lauded by the Tourist Information folks- in fact the only reason for going.

I found it all rather creepy. Largely it was uninhabited. We were told there were people living on it and did see some abodes but never so a single person. What we did see though when we turned a corner were the hundred beady eyes of sheep. They all just stopped and looked. Whenever I've seen sheep in the past they have been behind a fence so I haven't given them a second thought. These though were wild, en masse and looked a bit sinister. We walked slowly among them waiting for the for the charge that never came. We were on an small island so I couldn't help think if they charged we'd be running around it all day.

Our ultimate destination we finally reached- the castle. We'd built a picture of a lovely big stone palace with modern heating and displays to look through in the warmth. Then we'd sit down in a tea room for something to eat and a hot drink. What we found instead was a ruin peaking out from behind a mass of scaffolding and tarpaulin flapping wildly in the breeze. Still through the disappointment I had to investigate to find there was no one home and no way in. No wonder only we had been stupid enough to come. A monumental building site not even open to the public on this forsaken island was the prize for our troubles.

I remember thinking how I just wanted to get off this damned island. My wife was cold, miserable and in pain from walking. We just wanted to go home but there we were stuck in the cold and exposed to the elements with a trek to get back and then another long wait to get picked back up. Just a horrible experience. When we did eventually get back to to phone box we were soaked and exhausted while still being beaten by a strong unrelenting wind. It took 30 minutes of huddling in that red box before the ferryman came. We were so happy to see him come- for one we didn't think Charon did return journeys.

I read once that people who have an anxiety problem find that when they overcome them they are stronger for it. The experience of being without and everything you desire being just out of reach makes you appreciate it all the more when you finally touch it. I can relate to that. When we sat in the warmth of a cafe supping on hot carrot and coriander soup while soaking our thickly buttered crusty load it was bliss. Normally it would have been nothing to write home about but after our experience that day it was divine. It could not have tasted better and we savoured every moment.

The bad times certainly make the good times all the better and only by going through the trials can we truly appreciate life.